We could not have picked a better weekend to go hiking. The weather was cool and crisp. The leaves in the trees and on the ground displayed a wonderful array of colors. It was damn near perfect.
We drove to the trail head Saturday morning. As we headed north, the clouds overhead were cold and gray. The kind of clouds that remind you of snow even thought it was too warm for that. We were about halfway there, when the rain started. My companions for the weekend, Shutter and my dad, both look at me and start ribbing me about my reputation as the Rain King.
“We’ll drive through it,” I announced, “There are blue skies ahead.”
I was confident for some reason. The rain stopped not long after it started, and by the time we had reached the trailhead there was blue sky visible through clouds. It was cooler than we expected, temperatures in the low 40’s. We threw on fleece jackets and our packs. We were on the trail again.
The Trail was broad and well trod. It traveled up the ridge at a gentle grade. This is not what I expected. I had anticipated a trail the wound up the ridge from one switchback to the next. This is the way the Appalachian Trail tends to be. In this case, we had received a break. The climb, as a result, wasn’t hard at all. As we sat at the top and had some lunch, I checked the maps. found out that the ridge we were walking on used to be a mined for coal, and that the trail that we were walking on used to be a stagecoach road between the Villages of Yellow Spring and Rausch Gap.
As we continued our walk, I looked at my surroundings with new eyes. I pictured a coal mining community and the business of removing coal from the earth. I could see hints and traces of this other world around me. We walked through the remains of the village of Yellow Springs. There was nothing to see but a Mail Box that had been put there so to hold a log for AT hikers to comment in. The village itself was gone. Piles of rocks were all that remained. I do not know if these piles were all that was left of the buildings, or simply piles of rocks that had been cleared. It was beautiful and left me thinking back to simpler time. A time when a man could go off and live in the mountains.
Part of me would gladly give up all of our modern creature comforts and go off to the mountains. I think I would be content on a little sustenance farm. Maybe I was just caught up in the beauty of the day. The last of clouds had drifted away. The sun was shining but not warm. The sky was a light blue color that contrasted brilliantly against the yellow and orange leaves. The leaves were wonderful. The oaks and the soft wood trees had leaves of every shade of yellow and orange. Every now and again the yellows and oranges would be broke up by the shocking red of the maple leafs, or the green of the pines, mountain laurel and rhododendrons. These evergreens seemed oblivious to the approaching winter, even the air carried the chill of winter on it.
I walked on. As the shadows grew longer, I started to notice odd little hills. They seemed completely out of synch with the contour of the ridge. By the time I had passed three or four of them, my curiosity was piqued. The mystery was solved when I noticed the crumbled black stones, which were exposed by erosion on one of the hillocks. They were slag mounds. It amazes me that such a foul by-product of the coal mines given a hundred years, becomes something so beautiful.
We didn’t have to walk much further to find our destination. The trail to the shelter led us on to a massive slag mound. It was broad and level. We walked a third of a mile or so on this artificial plateau. It was lined with trees on either side of the trail so that it resembled a boulevard leading up to a country estate. I was very excited; this was an excellent location for a shelter.
My excitement, did not last. We got to the shelter; it was set down in the mound, like Uncle Owen’s moisture farm residence. It was also occupied. Of course, that is not a problem in itself. We have shared shelters many times and met some great folks in the process. But what we saw this time, was something that none of us could have anticipated. The Yuppie couple that was at the shelter had a pitched a four man dome tent inside the shelter. Not only that, but they had it set so that the door of the tent opened into the third of the shelter that wasn’t occupied by the tent. They had used the remaining space to spread out there gear as though the shelter was the front porch of their tent.
Their dog ran loose and came up to greet us as we stood there, unsure of what to do or say. After a hushed conference, we decided to pitch our tents at the end of the slag mound, about a hundred yards beyond the shelter. It was a good spot for camping and we know that shelters are never guaranteed to be available or empty. It did not bother us so much to tent, what bothered us was the lack of etiquette. There is an etiquette that goes with backpacking, some unwritten rules that are respected by most backpackers.
You carry your own gear. If you need it you carry it. If you don’t carry it, you live with out it. You don’t eat where you sleep. You leave no trace when you camp. If you want privacy when you camp, you pitch a tent. Shelters are communal in nature. You make room for other when you are in the shelter. Or as the saying goes, “The shelter isn’t full, until the last person is in.” And when you bring a dog, you make sure he isn’t a nuisance to others. Not everyone likes dogs. When my brother comes with us, he brings his dog. But he makes sure that if other people are around the dog is on a leash. And if other people are at that shelter, the dog and he sleep in a tent.
It was upsetting for us to see these Yuppies ignore all of these unwritten rules. Maybe they didn’t know. But they didn’t seem to care, even as it became apparent that we had planned to stay at the shelter. The only redeeming thing was that the woman looked like she was terrified of us.
We made a roaring campfire to keep the chill off. We made our dinners and drank coffee. And after a while, we went back to our tents. It got cold in the middle of the night, but I was comfortable. By morning, it was nice out, sunny and temperatures approaching 50 degrees. I made myself a big breakfast. My dad and Shutter were already packed and ready to go before I had even started to eat. I hate to rush in the morning, so I told them to head out with out me. Dad left first, and Shutter headed out about 20 minutes later. I took my time and packed up. It was a slow start for me. My boots weren’t quite right and I knew that I would have a monster blister if I didn’t fix them. So I stopped after walking less than a quarter mile and fixed my boots. I was back on the trail and trying to make good time but then I realized I was on the wrong trail, when I noticed orange blazes instead of the familiar white. I back tracked a couple hundred yards to where the Orange Blazed trail had intersected the AT.
Back on track, I kept walking. I shed a few layers as I started to ascend the Second Mountain. The trail was poorly marked and I had to stop several times to find the path. I passed the Yuppies from the shelter, on the way up the mountain. I pushed harder to make sure I got ahead of them. The trail meandered around the top of the mountain before descending.
I still hadn’t seen a sign of Shutter or dad. I descended very quickly, hoping that my knees and ankles would hold up to the abuse. At the bottom of the mountain I caught them. Before long, we reached the end of our hike. We sat down on the side of the road and waited for our ride. It was damn near perfect.